If you’re heading to Mljet Island, Croatia, then hiking to Odysseus Cave is an absolute must.

I had the opportunity to spend about a week on Mljet Island, and it easily became my favorite destination in all of Croatia. Guys, I fell for this place HARD.

Also, of all the places I visited in Croatia, Mljet was the most off-the-beaten trail. Despite having a national park that takes up much of the Island, there is no mass tourism infrastructure. And for that, it is perfect.

In fact, I love Mljet so much that I wrote an article about my favorite things to do in Mljet Island. But first, let’s get into what you should know before hiking to Odysseus Cave.

👉 Jump to: Essential Info | The Legend | The Hike | What to Expect at the Cave | Tips

Hiking to Odysseus Cave on Mljet Island, Croatia

Essential Info

🥾 Length of Hike: 2.6 kilometers out and back. It takes about an hour one way.

⛰️ Elevation: 125 meters

📍 Trailhead Map: Google Maps

How to Get to Odysseus Cave Trailhead: Odysseus Cave is close to the southern coastal village of Babino Polje, so when you’re driving down the highway, you’re going to want to look out for a grocery store near this town called Tommy.

This is easy to find as it’s the only supermarket on the road. Cailee and I used this place to stock up on some snacks and water before we started hiking.

To get to the entrance of the trail, hike up the highway a few minutes the way you came until you come to a sign pointing to Odysseus Cave.

The entrance itself is pretty nondescript, so if it looks like the only way onto the trail is to barrel down the side of the hill on a path that maybe three people have gone down in the past 10 years, you’re on the right track.

 

The Road to Odysseus Cave

Like most activities on Mljet, you’re definitely gonna need a car or scooter to get there.

I recommend renting a car on the island with Discover Cars to get the best option for you. And book well in advance.

Our Airbnb on Mljet was in a cute little town called Polače. And, lucky for us, about two doors down from our apartment was a car rental place. We got a cute little orange zipper (that we named Babino) that had a Croatian music cassette stuck in the deck.

Now here’s the thing about getting around Mljet, Island – there is only one major road.

If you’re used to driving in North America, you’ll find driving on Mljet Island to be pretty easy. Just keep in mind that one side of the road is a sheer rock face and the other is a drop-off into the ocean. The road can be a little scary.

My friend and I rarely went faster than 45km/h and when the inevitable big trucks, cars, and school buses came up behind us because we were going so slow, we just waved them on by.

The Odysseus Cave Legend

So by now, you are probably thinking, “Odysseus Cave, that sounds familiar, does it have something to do with Homer’s The Odyssey?”

Okay, so you might only be thinking that if you’re a nerd like me, but to answer that question —  yes, yes it does.

So, as in the poem, legend has it that after surviving a shipwreck, a man named Odysseus found shelter in a cave on the coast of an island. There, he was struck both by the Island’s beauty and by the nymph Calypso. Because of these things (and a bit of kidnapping on Calypso’s part), he stayed on the Island for seven years.

It should be noted that there is also a cave in Malta that bears the same story, so like, make of that what you will. But this cave and Island are definitely beautiful enough to stay for seven years.

The Odysseus Cave Hike Itself

From the road, it took Cailee and me around an hour to get to the coast, and this included short breaks.

If you’re someone in a relatively fit condition, you’ll find that although this isn’t the toughest hike ever, it certainly isn’t the easiest. In a lot of places, there are sharp, jagged rocks that you’ll have to maneuver around, slopes so steep that you will slide down them on your butt, and some steep cliffs that will make your legs wobble.

Basically, leave the kids and stroller at home.

Also, when we initially researched this hike, we found some info online that said it should only take about 20 minutes from the entrance to the cliff. If you find this kind of information too, know that it is a total lie. That is unless you have a superhuman level of fitness and don’t stop for breaks.

Anyway, after hiking for a while, you’ll find yourself near the cliff, and in order to get to the entrance of the cave, you’ll pass through a hotel. Yes, you read that right, a hotel.

It’s called the Hotel Penelopa (named after Odysseus’ wife, though I’m not sure if you can actually stay here), and they do sell drinks there at the Bar Calypso, in case you fancy a stop.

All of this makes the site sound super touristy, but I assure you, compared to the rest of Croatia it is not.

This hotel is essentially a rugged little oasis by the sea consisting of a few pieces of wood slapped together and some hammocks blowing in the breeze. You will probably meet the owner on the way, as we did, while he smokes marijuana and casually nods that you are indeed headed in your intended direction.

From the hotel, the edge of the cliff is no more than a 3-minute walk.

What to Expect at Odysseus Cave

After the walk from the hotel, you’ll find yourself on a smooth-ish rock face with no indication you’re in the right place but a rope attached to a metal rod sticking out of the rock. This rope is so that you can pull yourself back up on the rock when you’re done swimming, because yes, you’re about to jump into the water.

There is no classy way to do this.

The rock isn’t super high from the water’s surface, but it’s high enough that you can’t just gracefully slip into it.

You’ll fling yourself, the water will be cold, and if you lack the forethought such as Cailee and I, you won’t bring a life jacket.

Luckily, the water is salty enough that you will be relatively buoyant, and you’ll find it fairly easy to swim unassisted in the open water (assuming you know how to swim that is — if you don’t THEN DO NOT GET IN THE WATER.)

Once you’re in the water, you swim. You swim into the cave with water crashing into the rocks all around you, not really knowing what you’re in for as you go deeper into the dark cave. Not knowing how deep the water is nor how long it will take you to get inside.

This is why I’m not posting a video of the cave, of which there are many on YouTube. Not knowing is so much better.

What I will tell you though is that once you reach the inside of the cave, there is a place for you to rest and take a break before you head back. There will be little fishies and a beautiful pink rock on which to lounge. All you’ll hear is the sound of water crashing into rock, bats squeaking overhead, and the echo of your own voice.

Like Odysseus, you will be mystified.

While my friend and I were there, we ran into a pair of girls around our age hiking back from the cave, a supremely fit young man carrying lumber presumably to the hotel, and an older couple who got to the cave just as we were swimming away.

Other than that, we had this experience all to ourselves.

Tips for Hiking to Odysseus Cave

Wear Your Bathing Suit

Because the best part of this hike happens in the water, wear your bathing suit under your clothes. There is no place to change on the trail and I’m not sure what the Croatian laws are for getting naked in public.

Park at Tommy Supermarket

To easily reach the trailhead for Odysseus Cave, I recommend parking at Tommy Supermarket down the road and then walking. You can also find a safe place to park on the side of the road.

Bring Snacks

When I say there is a hotel and bar on this trail, I say this loosely. There’s a guy who has a shack on the trail, but I wouldn’t rely on this for food, water, or shelter. Instead, bring your own snacks and enough water for a few hours.

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Thanks for reading my guide to hiking Odysseus Cave Trail on Mljet Island, Croatia! I have a lot more Croatia blog posts, so check out my list of things to do in Split up next!

Have you ever been to Odysseus Cave on Mljet? Would you go? Let me know in the comments!

 

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